Travaglini ed Il Nebbiolo del Nord (English version)

Travaglini and The Nebbiolo of North

We are located on the terrace Monte Mario of Waldorf Astoria hotel in a beautiful evening for a historical vertical of Travaglini Gattinara.

In front of us, 10 glasses:

1967 - 1985 - 1989 - 1995 - 1999 - 2004 - 2005 - 2007 - 2009 - 2010

A comprehensive introduction of Cinzia Travagliani on what has been and is this family business:

A history that began in the 50's by the father Giancarlo  that over time reached up to nearly 100 hectares,
whose most with excellent exposure to the southeast and southwest and with a height that varies between 280 and 460 mt.

The ground at the foot of Monte Rosa, on which vines grow is a mix of granite, porphyry and iron, which result in vivid colors during the various recesses.
This composition gives obvious minerality to what we find in the glass, giving also to the wine a rare finesse and drinkability.

The hills are well ventilated, avoiding possible rottenness and related treatments . The temperature differences between day and night, however, give elegance and perfumes.

The vineyards are 95% Nebbiolo, and 50/60 years old with a replanting done in 90's and harvesting is done by hand.

The production of about 270,000 bottles is exported for about 60% with a trend that sees the internal market on the rise, a sign that more and more italian consumers appreciate this wine.

The first vintage tasting is 1967, indicated by Mrs Cinzia, as a "great year."
A glass that needs to breathe a little before it can be put closeto nose and mouth.
We perceive immediately mushrooms, humus, an obvious terzializzation, tobacco, brine, walnut husk. In the mouth it is sufficiently fresh, fruity with a long finish.

With a leap, we move on to 1985.
The nose is our favorite: licorice, walnut, honey, iron, bitter orange and turmeric.
At the end of sip, perceive mushroom flavor, tannin is bold with a final acid / savory into the background.

The vintage 1989 was hot, gives us a deep wine, definitely impact one.
First sense is a dried prune but also herbs, walnut and cardamom.
Acidity makes us feel a blood orange and drags persistence; the tannins are present but well integrated and leaves a clean mouth.

Then in 1995, more like a "classic" Nebbiolo : 
Fresh vintage climatically speaking, the nose is a bit closed: humus, china, a balsamic note peep but weakly than other stemware, the palate has good acidity, a final slightly shorter compare to others, closing sapid

For 1999, the first DOCG vintage (reduction to be regulated to 75 quintals per hectare ... but never achieved), the nose seems more complex.
Smoky, tar, returns brine, again iron with great intensity. A round wine that fills the mouth, the tannins and the acidity intertwined with a long finish and pomegranate. 
We feel that this wine deserved to rest further and that the prospect of  aging is the best choice.

The sixth wine, the 2004 offers captivating smell sensations: red fruit (cherry, pomegranate), undergrowth, balsamic and florality.The tannin slips away with the help of flavor and acidity: wine that makes you want to be  drunk again.

In 2005 instead it returns the bond with the land, we could say almost briny, mineral push but also a sweet note. The taste is very balanced, comprehensive persistence that makes us appreciate even more.

The 2007 hot vintage, gives us a softer nose, friendlier undergrowth, fruity without ever forgetting its essential mineral.  Also in the mouth it is soft, and the pseudocaloric and glycerine notes cover the tannins and the acidity.

The penultimate is the 2009 with an inviting nose, surely deep;
Clear the orange, the undergrowth, the spices and minerality (humus and iron) but also herbs. Initially fresh then tannic, the flavor is to outline: a nuanced wine

Finally, the 2010
An elegant wine, almost austere: the spicy notes are the first scents that are perceived, the brine, the tobacco but also the pomegranate, licorice and the orange. In the mouth is a very persistent wine whose aromas reintroduced as in the nose.

The conductive line of these wines, in our opinion, has always been the interlacing of compnents that we perceived in the mouth: a great balance, alternating sensations without any of them prevailing

Finally, a little anecdote, the bottle design that many recognize for his particular form.

It was designed by Giancarlo that with foresight: had already sensed the long aging his wines could have. The shape precisely was born to make a mini decantation already in the bottle, preceding the sommelier work.

Strada delle Vigne 36
13045 Gattinara (VC), Italy
Tel. +39.0163.833.588 - Fax +39.0163.826.482