The room is on the second floor and the set-up of the room are the large round tables for 8 people with whom we will face during the "tasting-dinner".
The bottles are all the house Prum, producing wine just for a few years: the 1156! A large family, a branch of which is for example "Dr Loosen" known by many wine conoisseurs.
The family has always been an ambassador of Riesling, making history and developed with the utmost dedication and quality.
Slate on which the vines of the Prum family live and grow from immemorial time.
But let's start with the first trio in tasting:
1994 Bernkasteler Graben Riesling Kabinett Trocken
VISION 2001 Riesling Trocken
2012 Bernkasteler Lay Ley Grand Riesling Trocken GG
In the 1994, even though we were already very prone, the nose is surprising: we would expect a strong mineral note and the famous scent of hydrocarbon that is so fashionable but in fact, the first feeling is strong almost sweetish spice, turmeric and barley. Obviously the "black" note is clearly present and remains in the glass after it is spun several times. Despite 21 years, the wine was fresh, we could say almost sour, and the savory finish lengthens persistence.
2001 instead has a more delicate nose: marjoram, cedar but also wildflowers and tea leaves. The undercurrent of black soot, or for some people "charcoal", accompanies all. In the mouth, it is the most balanced of the trio.The name "Vision" is the vision of the producer of how a riesling should be, vision that we fully embrace.
Finally the 2012, smelling very pleasant and attractive: citrus notes, orange flowers, fresh grass but also yeast and honey. On the palate, it goes without saying, is fresh, very fresh, perhaps appreciated by those inclined to the acidity of this variety of grape.
In combination it is proposed by chef Favale of La Veranda, a carpaccio of smoked meat with cream of sweet garlic, lettuce and cheese.
We prefer to match the second wine for its smoky note that overlaps gently to smoke of the meat, alternatively we would choose the third. The first glass is contemplated as a meditation wine.
Then we go to the second trio
2012 Devon Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trocken GG
2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben
2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Alte Reben Riesling Trocken GG
A small digression: The so-called Alte Reben, which we could compare to veilles vignes of
Burgundy, still manage to give each year high quality grapes after 80 years or more.
The procedural guidelines regulate to 45 quintals per hectare while the producer the "exacerbates" to 25. Making another comparison, but changing country, the specifics of production of the Brunello di Montalcino, which happens to be one of the most severe in Italy, requires the maximum yield of 65 quintals. It 'easy to understand how much work, passion and quality is therefore in these wines.
The first wine, called Devon, because of the Devonian land on which the vines grow, is another nice mix of floral qualities, fruit (grapefruit) and minerality. It has an excellent persistence always with the support of the freshness, essential presence for this variety.
2004 is our favorite of the trio, the elegance reigns supreme in the nose: saffron, barley,
hawthorn, a riesling perhaps less marked by the usual characters, but really very pleasant (we asked if we could buy a few bottles but the producer responded that there are still few and all personal reserve of the family).
Finally, the third 2012, another GG, (Grosses Gewächs), perhaps opened too early, there is a nose with tropical fruits, herbaceous but also an unexpected water-rose. The palate has a savory final but not salty, long and pleasant.
In conjunction we are served the Rigatoni Cavalieri with whipped butter and sweet canestrato Forenza, rabbit confit and mushrooms.
For this tasty dish we prefer to combine the first wine, the more delicate than the other two, its freshness helps to "get rid of" butter and minerality goes along well with mushoorms.
Alternatively, we would pair the third wine as the we really like the second one and we would like to enjoy it alone.
Finally we go to the last two wines of the evening:
2003 Riesling Auslese Graacher Dompropst Fass 7
2006 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese
In the first cup "finally" are the hydrocarbons ... a sweet wine with more than 92 g/l of sugar. We find the rose water, pineapple, and vegetal notes. In the mouth, it is full-bodied but not intrusive. A great wine.
Last of the eighth cup of the evening, that we wish not to end, we find a fruity nose (lychee and apricot), spices, saffron and cardamom, and for this clear recognition that we prefer to combine dessert: a tarte tatin of quince orange and cardamom with sheep ricotta and acacia honey
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